Going South
Day 01 – Dublin to Manila via Singapore
Forty-five mouse traps and eight rat traps ensure that while the cat is away, the rodents don’t play.
I’m heading south for new sights, new sounds, new smells, new tastes, and new physical and mental experiences on a new adventure.
The First Principal of Transportation is “Safe Arrival” which is just as well because if it were “comfort” then the Munich-Singapore leg of this journey with LUFTHANSA would have failed miserably. But all things and experiences are temporary, transient, and impermanent, so I am sure my neck, back, and knees will recover in time!
There is still another 10 hours before arrival in Singapore, and regardless of the dukkha or bumpy-ride, I am quite content.
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever your journey takes you….
Day 02 – Singapore to Manila
The continued dukkha of LUFTHANSA economy class was material to work with in terms of being at ease in the midst of discomfort! But the food wasn’t bad and I can’t complain about the price.
We arrived in Singapore roughly on time but there was no time to waste in boarding the SINGAPORE AIRLINES flight to Manila. This was a much more comfortable flight especially in having a row of 3 seats to myself.
The flight arrived early in Manila, giving me over 5 hours to clear Immigration, Customs, withdraw some cash and buy a SIM card, before checking in for a flight to Puerto Princesa departing at 4 am on Tuesday morning.
The queues for Immigration, baggage collection and Customs Took around an hour before I set off on search of an ATM. There were lots of them, at least 9 that I tried, and not one of them had any money! Luckily, I had some US$ on me for later in the trip. I queued for 20 minutes at a very busy FX counter, considering that it’s nearly midnight. But I did get a reasonable exchange rate, so I am not going to complain, but I will make a note-to-self to always travel with some €uros or US$, just in case!
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever your journey takes you.
Day 03 – Manila to Sabang
Having secured some Philippines cash, I checked out the SIM card situation. Two companies, GLOBE and SMART were offering similar deals which included a lot of data but were relatively expensive. I used the free airport WiFi to go online and buy a deal on Klook which included enough data and a Philippines number with unlimited calls and texts, which I could pick up from the GLOBE sales desk. Done deal!
It’s gone midnight and there are long queues to check-in or drop bags at the CEBU PACIFIC counters. My flight isn’t until 4 am so I am not in any particular hurry. Security screening was quick and straightforward. I was sitting in the Departure Hall (I wouldn’t call it a Lounge) by 1 am with loads of time to relax, but not fall asleep, before boarding the flight to Puerto Princesa.
Arrived safely after an uneventful 60-minute flight.
Expensive tricycle hailed outside Puerto arrivals but it must be cheaper to walk the short distance to the main road and hail one. But the tricycle driver did drop me outside the compound where the 7:20 am Jeepney departs for Sabang.
The Jeepney ride was fun but started to get uncomfortable towards the end.
I am staying at the Cafe Sabang Guest House in a Economy Single Room with shared bathroom. There’s no air-conditioning but there is a fan. Also, for the feint hearted, there’s no hot water, soup or shampoo. Across the road is the Four Points by Sheridan which costs €175 per night. That would pay for more than 3-weeks at the Cafe Sabang which costs €7.50 per night.
I have been travelling for two days, so had a shower (cold) and a couple of hours sleep, before heading out to explore Sabang.
I stopped for lunch on the beach, Chicken Sisig and a couple of iced teas.
I walked most of the length of the beach on bare feet, which was a joy. I ended up at the small town centre with its one, thankfully working, ATM.
An early dinner of Spicy Chicken Pizza rounded off the day nicely.
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever your journey takes you.
Day 04 – Sabang – Subterranean River
I slept well enough but was woken as a large group of people were up and all about the place at 4.15 am!!!
The guest house had arranged a booking for me on the Subterranean River Tour starting from the Sabang Pier. The tour consisted of a boat ride to the shoreside of the cave entrance. An Audio Guide for the 40-minute canoe ride into the cave. And, the return boat journey to Sabang town. All In all, a very pleasant and agreeable experience.
I had been told that breakfast would be available from 7 am before leaving for the tour, but nothing materialised. No matter, I stopped for a late breakfast of burger, fries and coke after arriving back in Sabang town.
It’s too hot to do much around midday other than a little laundry to take advantage of the sun to dry clothes quickly!
As much as I want to try more Filipino food I opted for batted fish and chips for a late lunch. Afterwards, I took the opportunity to walk south along the shore in the opposite direction of Sheraton’s Four Points. The shoreline and path were very different to the clean and tidy beach to the north. The path led to the residential part of town where ordinary Filipinos live.
Having enjoyed this morning’s tour, I have no need nor desire to do anything else during the rest of my time in Sabang. This afternoon’s activities will be centred around enjoying the sea breeze, watching the waves and sipping Iced Tea. That is also the anticipated agenda for tomorrow!!!
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever your journey takes you.
Day 05 – Sabang
very quiet day. After Breakfast, I took the opportunity, over a cafetiere of coffee, to book hotels in San Vicente, Cebu City, and Manila. Job done!
Went for a long walk on the beach in bare feet, followed by a long afternoon nap. I think the sun and the exertions of getting here have caught up with me.
I woke myself up to take a pre-dinner walk to the beach for a Pitcher of Iced Tea. Imbued with much gratitude.
Mosquitoes are proving to be an irritation even thought I have various creams, body and room sprays (from Spain and Japan), so I am going to check out the effectiveness of a local bug spray. We shall see!
All in all, it was a very successful day of doing virtually nothing.
Whing you safe arrivals wherever your journey takes you.
Day 06 – Sabang to San Vicente
Steps walked today: The Health App on my phone tells me I walked 16600 steps but as I spent all day in a van and on a bus, this is clearly wrong. I suppose the bus went so slow climbing some hills it could be interpreted as walking!
There was heavy rain overnight and this morning. My planned beach walk after breakfast is postponed until I get to Long Beach, San Vicente, this afternoon.
I paid 950 pesos to get from Sabang to San Vicente with the expectation of travel by two air-conditioned minivan journeys but sadly that wasn’t the case. The first van to the main crossroads (Joy & John Eatery) was quick and comfortable but then I was told I would have to wait an hour for the normal public bus to San Vicente town centre. I could have arranged the same journey myself for nearly half the price!
The bus arrived 30 minutes later than advised and it was full of people and goods. One of the two conductors took my backpack, and made someone move up so that i had half a seat. My backpack was tied to the open door with rope.
There is no road along the west coast between Sabang and San Vicente, a distance of about 40 miles, so the only way is by road, most of which Is on the east coast, a total distance of 99 miles.
It was an interesting if, at times, a little uncomfortable journey. I eventually was able to switch seats in between very crowded legs of the journey. At one point the BeeGees were blasting out “How deep is your love?” as we rattled along the eastern highway.
The Buddhist word Dukkha is normally translated as “Suffering” but this isn’t quite correct. The origin of dukkha is a dirty axle space that gives rise to an uncomfortable journey. Life is a bumpy ride. The essence and intention of Buddhist teachings are to provide a cushion to ease the bumps and jolts. They are still there, ever present, and no one can avoid them but we can learn to not suffer for them.
As I often recall, the First Principal of Transportation is Safe Arrival, and 7 hours after leaving Cafe Sabang, I arrived at Marianne’s Guest House on Long Beach, San Vicente safe, well and not too bruised.
There are no restaurants nearby, so I ordered a simple Scrimps and Rice dinner for after my walk to Long Beach to watch the sunset.
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever your journey takes you.
Day 07 – San Vicente
A good night’s sleep sans mosquitoes! The accommodation is reasonable but overpriced for what you get. The shower might be ensuite but it is still cold.
I arranged for a Filipino breakfast at 10 am. There is no restaurant, so meals are served on the ‘terrace’ which was just fine. I received an automated SMS message warning of severe rain, so I am not in a hurry to get anywhere.
I took the opportunity to do some research on the Buddhist concept of citta or heart-mind, but as I deliberately didn’t bring a laptop or tablet, it not so easy to organise my notes. I might have to reconsider this choice on my next trip.
I left Marianne’s Guest House about 2:30 pm, during a break in the rain with the intention of walking towards San Vicente ‘town’ in the hope of hailing a TukTuk or Tricycle along the way. I only got perhaps 300m before the rain returned but a TukTuk materialised at the same time to take me the 5km into town.
After walking around the tiny town, the heavens opened up again making this the right time to have a late lunch or early dinner depending upon your perspective. Mango’s Bar served me a huge bowl of Pancit Canton (noodles) and a Pitcher of Iced Tea. The meal was so filling that I let go of my habitual desire for a large bowl of ice-cream, but I did buy a selection of Filipino candy before taking a TukTuk back to the guest house.
Just as an aside, I have come across a number of dogs and cats since being on Palawan. They are not shy in coming forward to be stroked and made a fuss of. Everybody wants to be loved. It could just be me of course. The Buddha said that one of the benefits of practicing Loving-kindness is that animals will love you… well the mosquitoes certainly seem to.
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever your journey takes you.
Day 8 – San Vicente to Cebu City
As much as I like travelling, I do like my own space and the routine I enjoy in Ireland. At weekends, I particularly relish, savour and linger over coffee and cookies in bed. That would be several cups of coffee and more than one cookie! I do have coffee in bed during the week but somehow, the addition of cookies makes this a weekend treat.
Waking up early this Sunday with no access to coffee or cookies isn’t a problem as I try not to suffer for my preferences. At least I had loads of time to pack before breakfast was delivered at 10 am which included one sachet of instant coffee.
After breakfast, the Guest House ordered a TukTuk for me to go into town before heading for San Vicente Airport. When the TukTuk got to town, I asked the driver how much for the complete journey to the airport. He said 350 pesos. I gave him 50 pesos for the ride into town (which is the standard rate) and said I would get a different ride to the airport. After a couple of large black coffees at Mango’s Bar, I took a Tricycle to the airport for 150 pesos, which I still think is too much but it was half the price of the TukTuk.
San Vicente Airport usually has one flight in and out every day to Cebu. Today there is also the less frequent service from/to Clark Airport near Manila.
There are no x-ray machines here, so going through security means opening all baggage for inspection including checked luggage.
One of the airline’s representatives, gave an address through a megaphone, which I couldn’t make out over the noise of the air-conditioning and TV, but it transpired that departure would be delayed by at least 40-minutes due to the inbound flight being late.
The inbound aircraft eventually arrived and despite the delay to departure, the flight landed in Cebu only 20-minutes. I had a window seat (17A) and the adjacent seat was vacant, so there was room to stretch out on the 90-minute flight.
After collecting my checked bag, I walked directly to the T1 Arrivals Pick-up Zone, put my ride request into the GRAB App and was on my way within a couple of minutes. The journey to Marco Polo Plaza Hotel took around 45-minutes in moderate traffic, which i shall have to factor into the return ride in three days time.
Due to a conjunction of various factors, I have booked a room at the Marco Polo Plaza Hotel.
(I won’t go into detail here, but if you want to know more then check out GHA Discovery membership through a digital subscription to Business Traveler magazine… it’s a very good deal).
I was very much looking forward to using the hotel pool but I have developed a small open cut between my toes from wearing flip-flops, so I won’t risk slowing down the healing process or risk infection by getting my foot wet. On checking in, I was given a room upgrade, complementary buffet breakfast, and a fruit platter in my room. The dinner buffet worked out at about €33 which is too much for my budget, so I ordered a passable Chicken Adobo in the Lobby Lounge for €9 just for convenience. While eating, I couldn’t help but smile while I heard a lounge-music style piano version of the BeeGees “How deep is your love?”
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever your journey takes you.
Day 09 – Cebu City
The hotel has a fairly Standard Buffet Breakfast set up, which I put to the test:
- Small plate Dim Sum
- Large bowl Chicken Noodle Soup
- Small plate Sushi
- Small plate Continental Meats and Cheese
- Medium plate Fruits and Yogurt
- Two Pastries
- Lots of Coffee and juices
There was a lot I didn’t try but what I had was average. I don’t stay in upmarket hotels very often but my recommendations for two top class breakfast buffets would be Anantara Riverside Resort Bangkok for variety and ambiance, but for an immersion into world breakfast cuisines then The Royale Chulan Kuala Lumpur.
After breakfast, I took the hotel shuttle bus to SM City Mall where I had a brief wander then went in search of some spare ‘tubes’ for my hearing aides. SM City Mall is quite large but there is no floor/store directory, so it took me ages to find the Manila Hearing Store who couldn’t help anyway. I decided to try one more store which is roughly on the way to my next destination today. I took the 12G Jeepney from SM City Mall to Junquera Street, but again no luck with hearing aid spares. Never mind, I will have a look in Manila.
I went to Magellan’s Cross and the adjacent Minor Basilica of the Holy Child of Cebu. I always have mixed feelings about visiting religious places of veneration, and people’s submission to an external entity who must be worshiped or else they go to Hell.
I moved on to Miguel López de Legazpi Monument via a stop for coffee and cake. Near the monument is the old Spanish Fort San Pedro, which was interesting to walk around in the late afternoon.
I took a 12G Jeepney back to SM City Mall to eat in the food hall there. I had a lacklustre Beef Noodle Soup followed by an interesting HaloHalo desert.
I took a taxi back to the hotel and by the time I got to my room, I was feeling very unwell. Too much food? Too much walking? Too much sun? Too much of everything?
A good night’s sleep needed.
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever your journey takes you.
Day 10 – Cebu City
Feeling much better this morning. Having sampled much breakfast faire yesterday, I settled on Chicken Noodle Soup followed by fruit and yogurt.
An easy day was planned for today, staying out of the sun and maybe doing some website updates. I checked out the hotel swimming pool, not to swim but as somewhere to sit while I work. There was a distinct lack of shade by the pool, so I settled myself at the desk in my room.
I had a frustrating few hours of work partly due to the fact that I didn’t bring a laptop, making working with documents and spreadsheets on a mobile phone quite fiddly. Further frustrated by a problem logging on to WordPress which took up a lot of time and us still not resolved.
Enough is enough, so I walked to the main road and took an 04D Jeepney to Carbon Market. This street market is huge spreading over several blocktrans which partly transform into a night market in the evenings.
I wandered around, in part in search of something to eat, but of the dozens (if not hundreds) of offerings nothing looked appealing… all I could think of was e.coli on a stick. Safer to eat at the hotel even if they do charge €9 for a small bowl of Spaghetti Bolognese!
The Jeepney back to the hotel was very full, as was the whole experience.
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever your journey takes you.
Day 11 – Cebu City to Manila
My alarm was set for 5:30 a.m., but I was awake at 5. I checked out at 6 a.m. and then had a reasonable breakfast before taking a GRAB car to Cebu Airport.
I have three ‘free’ lounge accesses available until the middle of March, but I won’t be able to use them all before they expire. Even though I didn’t need or want to, I took myself to the Plaza Lou. Age today. So, when I was told my flight was delayed by about 40 minutes, I wasn’t concerned, as I had somewhere to retire. However, the coffee in the Plaza Lounge was undrinkable, and the food looked less than desirable.
After several small glasses of Calamansi Juice, I left the lounge and headed for Gate 9. The inbound aircraft still hadn’t arrived and was bustling around the gate area. As I was wandering around the shops, minding my own business, I heard my name announced over the PA system, asking me to report to Gate 9. An aerosol was detected in my bag, and I needed to go to the baggage handling area to open my bag for inspection.
Sure enough, I knew I had a large RAID bug spray packed. I was escorted to the baggage handling area, where the spray was confiscated because it contained flammable chemicals. I locked my bag up and gave it to the baggage handlers.
The flight eventually departed Cebu, landing in Manila about 40 minutes behind schedule. I collected my bag, booked a GRAB car and was going to Makati in a few minutes.
I have about 2,500 pesos left in cash, which is more than enough for my needs for the next 3 days, particularly as credit/debit cards are much more widely accepted in the area where I’m staying. In fact, I was wondering how I would spend the cash. But unexpectedly, the Prince Plaza II Condotel requested 2000 pesos ‘Damage Deposit’ in cash. So suddenly, I find myself with just 500 pesos in cash for the next 48 hours, as I do not want to make another ATM withdrawal.
The first thing I did in my room was to retrieve the second aerosol of bug spray in my bag and spray the room. I bought this spray in Japan last year, and it has accompanied me on several international flights. To be fair, it is a water-based aerosol, so I didn’t think to mention it to the staff at Cebu Airport.
I didn’t want to do much this afternoon, but I thought I would continue my quest for hearing aid spares at the Manila Hearing Store, which is apparently located in a nearby shopping mall. I got frustrated at the SM City Mall in Cebu due to the size of the building and the lack of clear signage or a store directory. But that was nothing compared to the scale of the problem in the Makati district of Manila. There are numerous different shopping malls with hundreds of stores spreading over several blocks that are all interconnected. There are no maps or store directories, and the signage is very poor, if not confusing. It took me a couple of hours to find the Manila Hearing Store, but I did not find what I wanted anyway.
I have been on the go all day, so now it’s time to eat, do some hand laundry, and perhaps have an early night. I thought that I would pick something up from the SevenEleven store next to my hotel, but surprisingly, they only accept cash. Fortunately, there is also a Subway Sandwich store there, and that does take credit cards. I chose a footlong sandwich, half for now and half for breakfast tomorrow, and a large Coke Zero.
Can I stay within my cash budget for the next two days?
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever your journey takes you.
Day 12 – Fort Santiago, Manila, Philippines
Instant coffee and half of yesterday’s Subway Sandwich for breakfast, which I enjoyed and will do the same tomorrow.
I walked to Ayala MRT Station, which is attached to the vast Mall complex near the Condotel in Makati, where I am staying.
Unfortunately, Manila does not have an integrated public transport system, so I could not get a ticket to my desired destination, Carriedo LRT Station. First, I had to buy a ticket from Ayala to Taft Avenue (13 pesos), then change to the LRT at EDSA station and buy a ticket to Carriedo (25 pesos). But the First Principle of Transportation is Safe Arrivals, so that is all that really matters.
From Carriedo Station, I walked to the historic Intramuros area of the city. I visited but did not enter the Minor Basilica and Metropolitan Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception – Manila Cathedral, then went on to Fort Santiago, which was initially constructed by the Spanish rulers of the Philippines Islands. The fortification had also been used by the British during the seven-year war but more recently by the Japanese during their occupation in WW2. Many atrocities were committed here, not least the 600 recently dead bodies found in the dungeon after the Japanese left. As Philip Larkin wrote, “Man hands on misery to man…”
I have a scheduled weekly online meditation sit with a Secular Dharma sangha on Thursdays, so I gave myself plenty of time to get back to the Condotel, including allowing time for coffee and cake in Intramuros and an early dinner back at one of the Makati Mall Food Halls.
On the walk back to Carriedo Station, I made two new Filipino female acquaintances who seemed eager to learn all about me and accompany me back to my accommodation. I left them disappointed at the station.
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever your journey takes you.
Day 13 – Manila, Philippines to Sydney, Australia
As I was packing up to check out of the condhotel, I took a close look at my right foot that had sustained a cut last week when wearing flip-flops in Sabang. The wound is not healing and walking is becoming more painful. So, after checking out and leaving my bags in storage. I took a taxi to the Makati Medical Center to visit the ER Departure.
Everything was very efficient from initial assessment, to seeing a doctor, to having the wound dressed, diabetes and blood tests, having a Tetanus Booster shot, collecting prescribed medications including for pain relief, and discharge (after I had paid the bill). The doctor provided a ‘sick note’ that I should rest for 2 days.
It is interesting to note that when I was asked what I had taken for pain relief, I realised I had taken nothing, I hadn’t thought about it. In Buddhist terms, this is a Sankhara, a conditioned response. One of the conditions for this response is that I chose to bring sturdy flip-flops rather than a cheap pair of the many lightweight open-toe slippers I bought from AliExpress, thinking, consciously or otherwise, they would look better. Desiring to “look better”, directly led to my current predicament, my “fault” as it were. I am the owner of my actions and their results! Would I have been more likely to have taken pain medication if the cause of my infection was something else? Or would another Sankhara come into play, one from childhood that says “don’t make a fuss”.
Took a taxi back to the Condotel, to pack the meditations and documentation, before venturing into the Malls once again in search of food, and perhaps some cheap open-toe sandals.
I found both food and footwear, and managed to use all of my remaining Philippines cash.
Around 6:30 pm, it was time to start thinking about collecting my bags and heading for the Airport. Everywhere was busy as it was Friday, payday and Valentine’s Day, which people seemingly were spending their money on.
Arrived at the Airport nearly 4 hours early and was happy ro find that check-in was already open even though the display boards said it wasn’t. Before getting to the counter, all bags have to be opened to be swabbed for banned and dangerous substances. After collecting my boarding pass, I went to one of the many Lounges other 4th Floor, to spend a few hours before boarding the roughly eight hour flight to Sydney. The Marhaba Lounge was small and the food uninspiring but I have a pass to use and the upcoming flight only provides meals and drinks for purchase.
I went to the gate early and found a very long queue of people waiting to get into the boarding area because first everyone’s hand luggage has to be searched for contraband… no wheels of cheese or raw meat, that type of thing. I was very disappointed when the three small bottles of water I had were confiscated.
The aircraft boarded fairly quickly and i was delighted to find that I had a row of three seats to myself. Not that you can do much with three seats, not like actually lying down if you have a row of 4 to yourself. Anyway, I am grateful for small blessings.
The long haul Cebu Pacific flights are cheap but not overly at all comfortable. The seats do not recline, there are no blankets or pillows, there is no entertainment system (Including maps and flight info), there is no included food and drink service.
The flight departed Manila a little late at around 11:30 pm but we are advised that it should only take seven and a half hours to reach our destination. Time enough to get 40 winks.
Before putting my phone away, I notice that I have walked over 9 km today, which isn’t really following doctors orders!
Wishing ing you safe arrivals wherever your journey takes you.
Day 14 – Sydney, Australia
I managed to get about three hours contiguous sleep. It’s not a lot but it will get me by until later.
I didn’t miss the in-flight meals or entertainment but I do like to know the flight status, ETA etc, but I suppose the bottom line is; if you are not on the ground then you haven’t arrived yet.
The flight touched down exactly on schedule at 10:45 am. Immigration and customs checks were straightforward and relatively quick.
The train from the airport into the city was easy to negotiate and navigate. This was made much easier by Sydney’s integrated public transport options with it’s Tap-on/Tap-off payment system. In fact, the train took me from the airport through Central and on to Wynyard where tonight’s accommodation is located. I arrived at the hotel 90-minutes after touch down but too early to check in!
The Wynyard Hotel is a pub with rooms. A run down pub with rooms. The bar was empty when I arrived but the look and smell gave me the shudders. I left my bags at the Wynyard Hotel and headed off in search of some decent coffee.The doctor in Manila had suggested resting my foot for a couple of days but as I had a couple of hours before I could check in, I thought an easy 20 minute walk to the Opera House and back wouldn’t be pushing things too far.
As I approached Circular Quay, I took the opportunity to stop on the street and call Queensland Rail about next week’s train journey from Cairns to Brisbane. Yesterday, I had heard that there might be problems due to flooding, and even booked an extra night in a hotel in Cairns, just in case. I also looked at flights with the cheapest one about AUD$80.
I was informed that due to the recent severe flooding, the status of this service is uncertain. It might run, or might run partially, or might have a bus replacement but there would be no guarantee of actually getting to Bribane. As everyone knows, the First Principal of Transportation is Safe Arrival (at the intended destination), so Queensland Rail’s service doesn’t meet this standard.
I had extended my budget to include a ‘Railbed’ on this overnight service, so a bus replacement is not going to cut the mustard as it were. I cancelled my reservation for a full refund of AUD$390 and will book a flight instead.
I spotted a nice coffee shop near Essex Street and ordered a large black Americano. Yesterday’s flight from Cairns to Brisbane which was $80 is now $188 but it is still the cheapest one! Once booked with all the add-ons the total was $223. Plus, of oourse, the extra night’s hotel cost of $124 and getting to the airport, won’t leave a lot of change out of $390.
Such is life… you don’t always get what you want. But, I do get an extra day in Cairns and probably a better night’s sleep.
Flight booked, coffee drank, I set off into the buzz of the Circular Quay. There was a lot a of hustle and bustle around a very, very big cruise ship. There were hundreds of people and masses of baggage in various queues waiting to board the ship. One man’s bread, is another man’s poison. It looked like disorganised chaos, it looked like none of my business.
Moving on, I could see the Harbour Bridge to my left and the Opera House to my right, and the ferry to Manly, just about to leave from Pier 3, directly in front of me. With one Tap of my credit card, I found myself sitting on the top deck with a huge grin on my face. Sometimes we do get what we want.
It was a very pleasant and agreeable, and sunny trip to the ferry terminal in Manly. I took a short stroll by the beach to sit in the shade and soak up my good fortune. Even with (or because of) a sunburnt head, an infected foot, and a lack of sleep, this is Nirvana. Nothing needs to be added and nothing needs to be taken away. No cravings, aversions or confusion.
Pause, linger, and savour.
The beach is a perfect opportunity to observe, without judgement, human behaviour. Families picnicking. Friends drinking. Couples and individuals sunbathing in next to no clothes. The outward manifestation of “Look at me, I am my body”. Thank goodness for me that is another enchantment that has been broken, more by age than insight, “I am not my body”. Thankfully!
I took a fast ferry back to Circular Quay and a train two stops back to Wynyard. Google Maps informs me that there is a Chinese Noodle Restaurant near to my hotel which provided an OK early dinner.
After eating, I went to the hotel to check-in. The bar was busy at 5:30 pm on this Saturday afternoon. I looked around the various individual and groups of drinkers without judgement. It is none of my business if someone wants or needs to drink alcohol, or smoke a substance of choice, or snort, or inject something to change the present-moment experience. I tried it for 25-years and in the end it doesn’t work, the effects were off and you find yourself back where you started or worse.
As I trudge up two flights of stairs with my bags, I am eternally grateful that the spell of that particular enchantment has been broken.
After a quick trip to the supermarket across the street, it is now time now for a shower, shave and bed, to be ready for an early start tomorrow.
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever your journey takes you.
Day 15 – Sydney Central to Melbourne Southern Cross
I left the Wynyard Hotel before 7 am to give myself plenty of time to get to Central Station for the train to Melbourne Southern Cross Station.
At Central, I stocked up with a sandwich, potato crisps, chocolate, and coffee, ready to start the 11 hour journey to Melbourne.
The train waited a few minutes for a delayed connecting service to arrive before setting off 10 minutes late.
I an travelling in Economy class, but I took a look at the First Class carriages and the only difference of note was the price of the ticket.
Australia: what a cast of characters! I don’t like to stereotype but it was hard not to. Kath, Kim, and Sharon et al, were on the train.
My first seat companion was a young man of Asian appearance who board with a big gift bag and large bouquet of flowers and blowing post-Valentine’s kisses to his male lover on the platform. This young man filled the available space around him, and filled his stomach as he seemed to be eating for most of the 4 hours he sat next to me.
When he left, my new companion for the remainder of the journey was an older woman who carried a very large red cushion that occupied her lap and was hugged whenever she wasn’t browsing what appeared to be a shopping brochure. Whenever I wished to leave my seat to visit the catering carriage or the loo, she didn’t move. She moved her knees slightly to one side to indicate that I should squeeze by. As the couple in front both had their seats fully reclined, it was not easy to make my escape. The procedure was reversed on my return.
The man and woman in front had fully reclined their seats on boarding the train at Sydney Central. They could have been a ‘couple’ or possibly mother and son. She limped and used a single crutche, while he managed the copious amount of luggage that accompanied them. She didn’t smile for the whole journey. I initially thought ‘miserable’ woman, then I recollected that everyone has their own narratives and crosses to bare. Perhaps she has a very good reason to be unhappy, and my attitude towards the couple softened.
The young man sitting behind me spoke to everyone who passed, asking how they were and where they were travelling to. He would then inform the passing stranger that he was going to Albury, but he would be back in Sydney in March. Again, everyone has their own narrative and relationship to the world at large.
The main reason for going to Melbourne was primarily for this train ride. Although, to be honest, it wasn’t particularly spectacular in any way. However, it was an opportunity to take the weight off my feet rest my infected toes. A pleasant and agreable experience.
The train arrived at Melbourne Southern Cross Station 45-minutes late, around 7:15 pm. I had a 5 minute stroll to my hotel, the Best Western Melbourne City, who were nice enough to give me an upgrade to a large double room, and a welcome chocolate.
After grabbing a quick and uninspiring dinner of Fish & Chips, I took the opportunity of an early night in a nice bed, with much gratitude for my good fortune.
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever your journey takes you.
Day 16 – Melbourne, Australia
I slept well and awoke refreshed at 7 am. I made coffee and enjoyed the last of the Amaretti biscuits that I had brought from home. I made a second cup of coffee. Pause, linger, and savour. I made a third cup of coffee!
There is no agenda for today other than to find out where the SkyBus Airport Express terminal is located, and check the time of the first bus tomorrow morning as my flight to Cairns is at 6 am. I am reliably informed that the first bus is at 4 am, not 4:06 as advised by Google Maps! I bought my ticket for tomorrow to save a little bit of time in the morning.
There was a decent looking cafe next to the SkyBus terminal, so I took the opportunity to have a breakfast of Bacon & Eggs Chiabatta and Long Black Coffee. Not bad!
I walked across the road to a tram stop not knowing where I was going. This is Zen tourism, following my feet. I had been told that all trams within the city are free, and when, or if, said tram were about to leave the Free Zone an announcement would be made to allow people to exit before entering the Pay Zone, if that makes any sense.
The first tram took me to the Docklands, then I rode the famous number 35 City Link for its entire circular route, disembarking at the Melbourne Star ferris wheel. I try to travel light but one of my well worn socks has given up the ghost, and I now have my €6 all plastic open toe sandels, so new footwear is needed. I visited a UNI QLO store and couldn’t resist – I mean that – buying seven pairs of socks for A$30.
Time for Fika or Coffee and cake.
I took a another tram back to my hotel to drop off my new acquisitions, then on to St. Paul’s Cathedral and the surrounding area. It was a beautiful late afternoon with lots of people around and the evening rush hour on the horizon. I have a very early start tomorrow, so an early unhurried dinner of Indian Thali of curries, rice and bread works well.
Shave, shower, pack and set the alarm for 3:10 am… I don’t want to be late!
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever your journey takes you.
Day 17 – Melbourne to Port Douglas & Mossman Gorge
The weather during the day in Melbourne was comfortably warm, and this morning at 3:40 am, it’s pleasantly cool.
I gave myself 20 minutes for the 10 minute walk to the SkyBus Airport Express terminal, arriving in plenty of time for the 4 am bus, which departed exactly on time, and arrived at Melbourne airport 23-minutes later.
I dropped my checked baggage and negotiated security with time to eat a McDonald’s Big Breakfast before walking to Gate 42. The staff of JetStar weighed every piece of hand baggage and caught quite a few people off guard. It isn’t hard to see why so many budget, and some not so budget, airlines limit hand luggage to 7 kg ensuring large profits on travel ‘extras’. If there was a universal 10 kg limit on hand luggage, I could save an awful lot of money.
I sat in seat 13A, a window seat in an exit row with plenty of leg room. I can’t remember whether this was by luck or design but it did make for a very comfortable flight to Cairns.
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever your journey takes you.
Day 18 – Port Douglas to Cairns
Checkout from the Coral Beach Lodge is 10 am, so I am up early to pack up and load the hire car for a trip into Port Douglas town for breakfast. I had the big breakfast option at Toast, which was probably a little too big but very enjoyable all the same.
The weather is miserable with overcast skys, wind and drizzle. I think that it might have been nice to stay a bit longer or move on to Cape Trepidation, but I can’t go everywhere and I can’t do everything so that’s OK.
Before taking the Captain Cook Highway south to Cairns, I took a look a the netted swimming area on Four Mile Beach. It didn’t look very inviting, I must admit.
The drive to Cairns was easy even in the heavy downpours along the way. I parked the car and checked in to the YHA Cairns Central where I will be staying for the next 3 nights.
I booked a day trip for Friday to Green Island (Great Barrier Reef) including snorkel equipment hire, through the YHA travel desk for A$116 which I thought was reasonable, but in hindsight think I could have arranged cheaper if I had shopped around. But compared to the A$300-A$400 prices I had been quoted it was more affordable.
I have no further agenda for today but, even though walking is still a little painful, I took a stroll to Cairns Railway Station to see where I would be taking a bus from tomorrow to the Skyrail Cableway Station in Smithfield for the ride to Kuranda. I will go by Cable Car and return to Cairns on the Scenic Railway. It was less than a 10 minute easy walk to the Staion, so I decided to double back on myself and walk to Marlin Wharf to see where I would be boarding the catamaran to Green Island on Friday.
Marlin Wharf was an easy 20 minute stroll, so I won’t bother to take the car and have to pay for parking, which I am already paying for at YHA Cairns Central.
On the walk back to the hotel, I noticed a Thai Cafe called ‘Phetyai Thai’ that was very busy with seemingly Thai customers. I call it a cafe rather than restaurant as it is very basic, but the food is fantastic, even if it is toned down a bit in spiciness. I ordered Som Tam and Pad See Ew, either of which would have been enough on its own.
A perfect end to a nice day.
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever your journey takes you.
Day 19 – Kuranda, Australia
On the way to Cairns Station, I bought a Chicken Pagini and large coffee for the journey up to Kuranda.
The bus to the Skyrail Cableway Station arrived early, and once all booked passengers were accounted for, left early.
The 3 linked cable car sections were fun. The first stopped at Red Mountain?, the second at the spectacular Barron Falls, and the last terminating at Kuranda, adjacent to the Scenic Railway Station.
I have been lucky enough to explore rain forests in Amazonia, Costa Rica and all across South and South East Asia, but it seems quite novel to be doing the same in Australia. Tuesday in Mossman Gorge and today at Kuranda.
I tried to take one of the longer hiking trails starting by the Barron River around the town but it was not fully accessible, so I went to the supermarket to buy some snacks to make up my picnic lunch.
I went to Karunda Station early to sit in the waiting room with free WiFi until my scheduled departure at 3:30 pm, but was offered a seat on the 2 pm train if I wanted it. The earlier train suites me better so I took advantage of this serendipitous offer.
There weren’t many people on the train from Kuranda to Cairns, but there was an older couple with getto blaster, or similar, playing ‘blues’ music. Oh, how I miss the silent etiquette of Japanese trains.
It was a very pleasant and agreeable train ride back to Cairns, which made a 10 minute stop at Barron Falls Station, to see the waterfalls from a different perspective.
Back in Cairns, I couldn’t resist visiting Phetyai Thai again, this time for a huge plate of Pad Thai Chicken with some Prik Nam Pla (chillies in fish sauce) on the side.
The hire car didn’t leave the car park all day, but it was good to know it was there if I needed it.
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever your journey takes you.
Day 20 – Green Island, Great Barrier Reef
Up early to walk to Marlin Wharf for the 9 am catamaran to Green Island. I was the first on board at 8:15 where I collected the snorkeling equipment, including a full body lycra ‘stinger’ suit, that I would need later. The reason for getting here early was for the free coffee available before departure.
In my haste to get to the wharf, I forgot to bring both my eye glasses and a dry pair of underwear, unrelated items but both important.
The boat was only about 20% full when it cast off for the bumby ride to Green Island. During the ride, I booked an ‘extra’ activity of Snorkeling Safari to hopefully see some good coral and wildlife. I also hired a locker so that I could leave my backpack on board once we arrived.
It was getting on for 10:30 by the time the vessel docked and the Snorkeling Safari isn’t until 1:15 pm, so I took the opportunity to have a slow stroll around the parameter of the island, followed by a sit in the shade with a large long black coffee.
I returned to the catamaran in plenty of time to change into the lycra Stinger Suit, which was easier said than done, even when dry. It was nearly fully on when I decided that it was inside out, so took it off and started again, but I’m sure that it was still inside out, so that will have to do.
Myself and eight other snorklers eventually headed off on a small boat with driver, assistant and a Marine Biologist who would join us in the water to lead the ‘Safari’.
The weather hadn’t really improved all day, so the sea was quite choppy and the underwater visibility was rather murky. It was all an effort, to keep up with the Safari leader and to keep water out of my tube. Whenever we stopped for a moment, I couldn’t hear what was being said due to the wind and waves, and the absence of my hearing aids! It was all a bit of an expensive mistake really. I did have one or two brief moments of being at one with the reef and its inhabitants, but it was a relief to get out if the water and back onto the boat.
Getting a wet lycra body suit off is far harder than getting a dry one on. I wish I had remembered the dry underwear but had to go the rest of the day ‘Comando’ as it were.
The Phetyai Thai cafe was on the way back to the YHA, so I took advantage of that fact and had another huge Pad Thai for dinner. It is Friday and Phetyai Thai is very busy. This restaurant is highly recommended.
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever your journey takes you.
Day 21 – Nobbys Beach, Gold Coast, Australia
Some words will follow…
Day 22 – Surfers Paradise, Gold Coast, Australia
Some words will follow…
Day 23 – Butleigh Heads, Gold Coast, Australia
Some words will follow…
Day 24 – Nobby’s Beach to Brisbane, QLD, Australia
Some words will follow…
Day 25 – Brisbane to Ettalong Beach, NSW, Australia
Some words will follow… at some point!