Far Far East

Dublin to New Jersey – 8 October 2024
Another journey is upon me, so I’m sharing some rough notes to help me remember this experience—and perhaps inspire someone else to pack a small bag for a budget-friendly yet wonderful adventure.
Like everything that exists, this trip is the result of various causes and conditions. Firstly, I will be presenting at the 2024 Buddhist Recovery Summit in Stillwater, New Jersey, USA. Secondly, it was inspired by a special friend’s recent solo adventure to Japan. Lastly, I just have itchy feet.
There’s a lovely German word for “itchy feet”—Fernweh.
The literal English translation of “Fernweh” is “far-sore” or, more colloquially, “farsickness.” It describes a longing for distant places and a yearning for travel. It’s the opposite of homesickness, which is the longing for home while away.
Of course, all of these causes and conditions are the results of other factors, but I won’t delve into that here.
Several months ago, I mapped out a rough 60-day itinerary: USA > Taiwan > Japan > South Korea. I also considered North Korea, but the logistics, time, and costs made it unworkable on this occasion.
Last week, I took the opportunity to get my annual flu and COVID vaccinations. Now it’s time to head off, but not before I set 45 mousetraps and 8 rat traps, and turn off the mains water before the cold weather sets in.
The Chinese philosopher Lao Tzu once said, “The journey of a thousand miles begins at the bus stop.”
Yesterday, at 6:00 AM, I waited outside my cottage in the rain for the small local bus that would take me to Nenagh, marking the first leg of this new “adventure before dementia” for this “pensioner with a backpack.” Thankfully, unlike a previous occasion, the local bus did stop for me, so that’s a good start.
New Jersey – 9th October 2024
Far Far East
I didn’t have a great night’s sleep, but it was lovely to wake up at my friend’s house in New Jersey.
I spent the morning preparing for the two talks I will be giving on Sunday—one in person and the other online.
This afternoon, I took a short walk to the Patis Coffee Shop in Teaneck, where I enjoyed a large black Americano and two cakes—American Fika!
I didn’t bring my laptop on this trip, only my Android tablet. I ordered a small, lightweight travel keyboard from Amazon, which was delivered while I was having coffee. It was a bit expensive, but considerably cheaper than buying it from Amazon UK, and it’s a very good device to use.
I’m still feeling a little jetlagged, so I plan to take a hot shower and have an early night.
Buddhist RecoverySummit – 10 October 2024
Awake before 5 am due to jet lag, but still tired!
Fortunately, my host, Jodie, is an early riser so we had coffee and breakfast before 7 am.
Later, we sat together for a 30-minute meditation, then went our separate ways for the morning; Jodie to the gym and me to have coffee and cakes!
The “Middle Way” is different for everyone!
I picked up a large bottle of Sriracha Hot Sauce, just in case, and in all likelihood, that the Fairview YMCA where this weekend’s Buddhist Recovery Summit will be held, is devoid of the same. A sunyata of sriracha, as it were.
Buddhist Recovery Summit – 11 October 2024
Far Far East
Yesterday, I picked up a large bottle of Sriracha Hot Sauce, just in case the Fairview YMCA, where this weekend’s Buddhist Recovery Summit will be held, doesn’t have any. A true “emptiness” of Sriracha, as it were.
Buddhist Recovery Summit – 12 October 2024
New York City – 13 October 2024
Far Far East – Day 6
New Jersey & NYC, USA
Today is a bit of a speacial day. I gave my last two public talks… probably. The first was in person at the Buddhist Recovery Summit on ‘Forgiveness in Recovery’ which was recorded and I will post a link here when it is published. The second was an online offering for Sangha Live and the recording can be seen or heard here: The Spectrum of Sensuality – Where Do I Stand?
Ii was an easy ride back to Teaneck, with Cathryn Jacob as my able co-pilot. We stopped at my friend’s house, so that I could give my talk for Sangha Live,, before dropping the hire car back at Newark Airport. We took the train into Penn Station, and Cathryn treated us to an Uber ride to her hotel near Times Square. We shared some Pizza Slices and Sodas before I headed off to JFK for the next leg of my adventure.
I made these mistakes so you don’t have to!
To enter the subway, use a tap-and-go credit card or phone app.
Most stations have elevators, but you’ll need to find the correct entrance; otherwise, be prepared for a lot of stairs.
Here’s what happened to me (for your information only): I initially took the C train, thinking I was heading toward Euclid Avenue, but I ended up going toward the World Trade Center. I had to go up and over to the other platform to catch the E train, which isn’t very frequent.
This might be useful: I finally took the E train toward Jamaica Central and got off before the end of the line at Sutphin Blvd-Archer Av-JFK Airport. Here, you can transfer to the J train by following the signs for the airport train. There are elevators available.
More info: https://new.mta.info/maps/subway-line-maps/e-line
At the J train station, you pay as you enter the platform using the tap-and-go system through the blue turnstiles. It’s straightforward—just get off at your desired terminal.
Wishing you safe travels wherever your journeys take you!
New York, USA to Taichung, Taiwan – 14 October 2024
Last year, I took a 17-hour overnight FLIXBUS journey from Porto (Portugal) to Toulouse (France). Flying for 17-hours is much more comfortable, especially if the seat next to you is vacant!
Taichung, Taiwan – 15 October 2024
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Taichung, Taiwan – 16 October 2024
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Chiayi, Taiwan – 17 October 2024
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Alishan National Forest – 18 October 2024
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Alishan Sunrise and Kaohsiung City – 19 October 2024
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Kaohsiung City – 20 October 2024
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Kaohsiung to Taitung – 21 October 2024
Awake at 7 am refreshed and ready to go!
Relaxed morning packing all clean clothes. Grabbed a free coffee from reception and went to FamilyMart to buy breakfast for the train. Checked out after 10 and took the Metro to Kaohsiung Main Station, one stop on the Orange Line and one stop on the Red Line. Arrived on the train platform with 15-minutes to spare.
Limited Express Train number 423 is clean, spacious and quiet, just like all of the other trains I’ve been on in Taiwan.
Just over two hours after leaving Kaohsiung, the train arrives in Taitung, where it is a 5 minute walk to the ‘Corner No50 Hostel’. I have a large, simply furnished, double bedroom, with bathroom (and windows!).
The ‘hostel’ is close to the station but a bus ride away from central Taitung, using regular local transport. I paid for my room in cash, TWD 1,600 which leaves me short of ready money, so I head into town to find an ATM.
I found an ATM in a small mall at the Showtime Cinema near the bus station. Sadly, the ATM ate my WISE BANK card! I have other bank cards with me but my WISE account gives great exchange rates, even for small spends i.e. there are no individual transaction charges. I got in touch with First Bank, the ATM provider, and they will see what they can do.
It seems that a lot if shops and restaurants are closed on Mondays in Taitung. I walked to the beach in search of some decent food but nothing really grabbed my attention. The beach was nearly deserted and looking at the waves crashing in, I don’t think that it would be a swimming beach.
Anyway, I waited a while at the Seashore Park bus stop and an express bus to Taitung Station eventually arrived. I tried another bank card at the station but that refused to pay out. At least it gave me my card back!
Fortunately, I had topped up my EasyCard with TWD 500 before leaving Kaohsiung, so i was able to buy some food from 7-11 for a bedroom picnic.
I must start to look at my travel plans for Okinawa and the rest of Japan
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever you journey.
Taitung – 22 October 2024
Some words will follow…
Taitung to Taipei – 23 October 2024
I had an easy morning packing and managed to fit most of my belongings into my large backpack, which includes two sweaters and a coat. Although I won’t need them here, they’ll be necessary as I travel north.
I took a leisurely stroll to Taitung Station, stopping at a 7-11 for breakfast and a hot coffee.
The Taroko Express Train number 417 starts in Taitung, so I was able to board early and get comfortable in my reserved seat. The train departed exactly on time at 11:06 AM!
The scenery was spectacular, with mountains descending into the sea and beaches battered by heavy surf.
At Taipei Main Station, I opted to ignore Google Maps’ instructions to take the Bannan Line 1, which would have led me to places I didn’t want to go. Instead, I took the Red and then the Orange Metro lines, arriving at the Check Inn Hotel by 4 PM.
I have a small—emphasis on “small”—single room with a shared bathroom. Everything is very clean and tidy, featuring a common room and free laundry facilities. At €31 a night, I really have no complaints.
After settling in, I enjoyed coffee and cake at the café near the reception before joining an online Dharma study meeting, which was, as always, very pleasant and agreeable.
I visited a nearby supermarket to buy a large bottle of apple juice—not specifically for the juice itself, but for the size of the bottle… if you know what I mean.
On my way back to the hotel, I stopped for a spicy personal hotpot and a cold green tea. The hotpot was just what I needed!
I also spotted a brand-new Japanese-style toilet on sale for about €200… I really want one!
Wishing you safe travels wherever your journey takes you.
Taipei – 24 October 2024
NOTE TO SELF: Don’t drink the ‘Apple Juice’
I was really surprised at how well I slept, in fact I only woke up just before the 9 am alarm that I had set for myself.
I was curious abot why the hotel didn’t have a 4th Floor it turns out the number 4 is unlucky!
I took a local bus to Longshan Temple in the centre of Taipei. I obviously have been practicing Buddhism incorrectly for the last 20-years, as i read a sign that explained How To Worship:
“Fold your hands and tell the gods your name, date of birth, current place of residence, then tell them what you ask first. Bow three times to the spirits after you’ve finished asking your questions.”
Lots of ‘worshipers’ who obviously didn’t want to hand over all their personal banking details to the gods, chose to use Divination sticks and Poe pieces. But I must admit, while watching several people drop the poe pieces on the floor, I don’t think they got the answer they sought so they went for 2 out of 3.
In the Temple WC, obviously with safety in mind, each and every urinal was equipped with an ‘Emergency Button’. I am not sure what such emergencies might be? Wayward zips or mobiles down the bowl? And, what would happen if multiple individuals pressed their Emergency Button at the same time. Who actually comes to the rescue? I am afraid that I have more questions than answers on this conundrum.
My next stop was to be Bopiliao Historical Block (剝皮寮歷史街區) and Little South Gate (臺北府城小南門), and on the way I visited the short but odiferous Herb Lane.
Nearby there were prostitutes hoping to catch the lunchtime trade.
I followed up with a visit to the iconic Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, to see the changing of the guard, and the nearby associated buildings.
It was now time to eat so I headed to Yongkang Street for Beef Noodles, and particularly for the shaved ice mango dessert at the Smoothie House.
It was starting to rain persistently, so I took myself to the top of the Taipei 101 building. The view wasn’t brilliant because of the weather, but the experience was fun.
On my way back to the Check Inn, I noticed a very large statue of the mother of Jesus. It is good to know that while I give all my personal information to the gods at the temple, that the Virgin Mary Is looking down over all of us!
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever you journey.
Taipei – 25 October 2024
Today began with laundry again, as I had a tough stain on my alternate trousers from spilling quite a bit of Spicy Personal Hotpot on them. Maybe I should ask for a bib the next time I order any type of noodle soup!
I had a simple agenda today: hike to the top of Elephant Mountain, ride the Taipei Gondola, and walk around Shilin Night Market.
Before my hike up Elephant Mountain, I realised I hadn’t eaten breakfast, and it was already midday. Wherever I travel in the world—be it India, China, Vietnam, Thailand, Morocco, Europe, or countries in South/Central America—McDonald’s (or Burger King) is always a fallback option if I can’t find something else to eat. This choice is never about necessity or price but usually convenience and the path of least resistance. The most notable thing about McDonald’s (or Burger King) worldwide is that they never fail to disappoint.
Today was a different experience, though. I used the automated ordering panel and decided on a burger topped with mushrooms, small fries, 6 spicy chicken nuggets, and a 500ml cola. Before confirming the order, I accidentally increased my items from 1 to 2 for everything. I ended up paying around €13 for a double helping. I only wanted an extra sachet of ketchup!
It was indeed a double helping of disappointment!
The climb up Elephant Mountain was quite strenuous, with 600 steps up and another 600 down. At times, I felt sure my health app would reflect around 20,000 steps, as it certainly felt that way! Fortunately, there were several spots to stop and catch my breath, as well as various defibrillator installations along the path. The problem with stopping on the path was that I became a mobile blood-bank for mosquitos! Exposed elbows were particularly popular, and also the ankles, even wearing socks.
The climb tested my heart, lungs, and legs, reminding me of my own mortality. But, there are probably worse places to experience that!
After reaching the summit, I checked the Taipei Gondola website and discovered it was closed due to high winds. So, I made a slow descent from Elephant Mountain before heading to Shilin Night Market.
I arrived at the Night Market just as it was getting dark, but it was already bustling with people. I enjoyed exploring all the food stalls, even though I had no intention of eating anything else today.
The experience was filled with new sights, sounds, and smells.
I had a bit of a wait for the 618 bus, but it was worth it as it stops directly across from the Check Inn Hotel.
Wishing you safe travels wherever your journey takes you.
Naha, Okinawa (Japan) – 26 October 2024
I had a relaxing morning checking out of the hotel and preparing for my flight to Okinawa. I had time for a coffee before heading to the MRT and Airport Express for TPE Terminal 1.
Since I skipped breakfast, I’m looking forward to the included meal with my ticket. I hope I won’t be disappointed!
Everything was very straightforward. I checked in my large backpack, which weighed 10 kg, so it was good that I did since the cabin bag allowance is only 7 kg.
The immigration process was easy; I simply passed through an e-Gate, so I didn’t get an exit stamp.
The flight was comfortable and quick, taking about 90 minutes in total. Entry procedures at Okinawa took a bit longer but were manageable.
I tried to exchange some currency at the only FX counter I could find, but their rates, including commission, were at least 20% less than the bank rate, so I decided against it. I’ll find a bank on the mainland for a better rate.
I also looked to buy a SIM card but found they were overpriced at ¥8500, so I decided to purchase one online instead. I got 31 days of 4G service with up to 50GB for ¥4900 at https://prepaidsim.cdjapan.co.jp/eSIM/.
I withdrew some cash from an ATM, which issued two ¥10000 notes. I used one to buy a monorail ticket, so now I have smaller denominations available.
I took Naha’s famous monorail to my hotel, Naha West Inn, arriving 90 minutes after landing in Japan. The hotel is near the ferry port, which is convenient since I have an early departure on Monday. The room is comfortable enough, featuring a separate toilet and bathroom, a balcony, a fridge, and a microwave.
The desk staff recommended a nearby restaurant where I could enjoy Okinawa noodles and other local dishes. At the Bin Beer Sakaba Idaten, I tried the chef’s salad and yakisoba with Idaten sauce. Both were delicious!
Naha, Okinawa (Japan) – 27 October 2024
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Naha to Yoron Island – 28 October 2024
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Yoron Island to Tokunoshima – 29 October 2024
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Tokunoshima to Kagoshima – 30 October 2024
I was awakened early when the TV turned on by itself. It was around 8 AM, so I didn’t have any worries. The VAMOS Beach Front accommodation did not include breakfast, so since it wasn’t raining, I decided to hit the road sooner rather than later to make the most of the hire car.
I drove north, stopping at numerous observation points and beaches, soon realizing that I wouldn’t be able to visit every location along the coast; otherwise, I would miss my ferry later in the afternoon.
I decided to have an early brunch at a very traditional eatery, お食事処 とくや, in Amagi. I enjoyed a set lunch for ¥1000 (about €6), which was delicious and filling enough that I decided to skip ice cream for dessert.
Continuing my round-island tour, I made a few more stops at beaches and lookout points. Despite all the stops, I’ve only encountered two other people today.
As torrential rain began to fall, I stopped for a hot black coffee before returning the hire car to Orix Rent A Car. They then took me to the ferry terminal, where I arrived well in time for today’s sailing to Kagoshima New Port. It was uncertain whether the A-line Ferry Akebono would dock at Tokunoshima today due to Typhoon Leon, but despite the rough seas, it arrived just 10 minutes late.
I have been assigned berth number 112 in cabin C2. I say ‘berth,’ but it’s really just a mat, blanket, and pillow on the floor. There are perhaps 30 other ‘berths.’ The cabin looks nearly empty aside from 3 other passengers, but I remember that only 2 berths were left when I booked this trip 8 days earlier. Perhaps more passengers will board at the next stop, Naze, the last port of call before Kagoshima.
Now that I am on my way, I can book a hotel near Kagoshima Chuo Railway Station, where the next leg of this adventure will begin!
At Naze, hundreds of teenagers boarded the ferry. They seem to be part of different sports teams, both male and female, and are generally well-behaved, although a bit boisterous.
It’s 9:30 PM, and the Ferry Akebono is pulling away for Kagoshima, with an estimated arrival time of 8:30 AM. It’s time for me to make my bed and call it a day.
I’m not sure how well I will sleep tonight, as I must admit to feeling a little excited about picking up a JR Rail Pass and booking my first three Shinkansen journeys.
Wishing you safe travels wherever your journey may take you!
Kagoshima – 31 October 2024
Wow… what a wobbly night! The sea was rough, and we were sailing north to avoid the typhoon. The southbound ferry was canceled. In situations like this, the best place to be is definitely lying down!
I have a snotty cold, which under normal circumstances would make sleep uncomfortable. However, in Japan, blowing your nose in public is considered very rude, so I had to go to the restroom every time I needed to blow my nose.
After finally settling into a deep sleep, I was rudely awakened at 6:00 AM by my own alarm. The other seven passengers in cabin C2 were still asleep. I hadn’t eaten since lunch yesterday, so I wanted to be first in line for breakfast. There wasn’t much of a line at 6:15 AM, and I was second in line. There were only two choices for the set breakfast, so I chose the least fishy-looking option, but it still turned out to be quite fishy. Never mind—it was tasty and filling enough for ¥700.
The ferry docked on time, and there was a bus available for people heading to Kagoshima-chou Station, where my hotel is located. I dropped my bag at the hotel and walked the short distance to the station. I queued at the Ticket Office to exchange a voucher for a Japan Rail Pass to be effective from tomorrow, making a couple of seat reservations while I was there.
Meanwhile, I planned to have an easy day today with a train ride to Nishi-Oyama Station, the southernmost railway station in Japan. I managed to buy a ticket there from a machine, but I could not figure out how to pay for the return journey, which included a tourist train. So, I went back to the Ticket Office and queued a second time. All sorted! Time for coffee and cake.
From Nishi-Oyama Station, the view of Kaimonbunjoko Volcano was worth the ride. However, on the return journey, I mistakenly changed trains at the wrong station! So, my reserved seat on the tourist train from Ibusuki was probably empty while I waited at Yamakawa for an hour for the next ordinary train back to Kagoshima-chou. Such is life—difficulties and disappointments can turn into opportunities for a walk and some fresh air.
The commuter train back to Kagoshima-chou arrived soon enough, and I returned safe and sound, just over an hour later than expected. I headed to the Zabon Ramen restaurant in the station mall to enjoy a very decent ramen and gyoza dinner.
Back at the hotel, after completing the all-important laundry duties, I had a very pleasant online meditation with friends from Secular Dharma, followed by a relatively early night NOT sleeping on a futon.
Kagoshima to Hakodate by Shinkansen – 01 November 2024
Today marks the first day of my 21-day Japan Rail Pass, and I decided to put it to the test by taking three trains from Kagoshima to Hakodate. The ticket clerk raised her eyebrow when I requested seat reservations!
All that “Race Across the World” nonsense… just jump on a train.
While planning the Japan portion of my trip, I spent hours exploring various Japan Railway regional passes in different combinations to cover the country without a specific itinerary. Ultimately, the day before leaving for the USA, I concluded that the JR Whole Japan 21-Day Pass was the most economical and flexible option given my uncertain travel plans. Although the total cost initially sounds high, ¥100,000 or € 604, today’s rail journey alone would have cost ¥49,720 or €300 without the pass. I still have 20 more days to go.
Interestingly, if you purchase a JR regional pass online, you receive a QR code to exchange for your paper pass once in Japan. However, for the JR Whole Japan Pass, a paper voucher is mailed to you for the exchange. Since I delayed the purchase, I had the voucher sent to a friend’s address in New Jersey, where it thankfully arrived before my departure from the USA.
In hindsight, it was a mistake to buy the JR Pass through Klook, as if you buy through the JR website you can then reserve seats online rather than having to the station.
My checkout from the hotel was slightly delayed when the electricity socket refused to release my high-speed phone charger. I had to leave it behind and report the issue to the reception desk due to a potential risk of electric shock. Fortunately, I arrived at the station with plenty of time to spare and was looking forward to trying bento boxes, or Ekiben, at the train station. Ideally, I’d like to have a different ekiben on each train for breakfast, lunch, and dinner!
I couldn’t get a seat reservation on the first train, Sakura 542, from Kagoshima-chou to Shin-Osaka, but since the service originates in Kagoshima, it was easy to find a window seat in one of the three carriages for passengers without reservations. The other thing I couldn’t get was Ekiben, as there is no food service on this train. The journey was quite busy with people getting on and off during the roughly four-hour trip. The last person to sit next to me was a man originally from Limerick, now living in Italy.
I had 18 minutes to change trains in Shin-Osaka to catch the Hikari 648 train to Tokyo. I have a reserved window seat, which is nice because there’s more to see on this leg of the trip—there aren’t as many tunnels. This train isn’t as crowded, and I have a row of three seats to myself. However, there’s no food service on this train. Fortunately, I have an emergency Snickers bar and a bottle of green tea to keep me going, but I will need to eat soon. With only eight minutes between trains, I won’t have time to buy anything at Tokyo Station.
The train from Shin-Osaka arrived at platform 19, and the train to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto departs from platform 20. Sounds simple, but platform 20 is located in a different part of the station! I have less than eight minutes to get there. I showed my pass and reservation ticket to the station staff at the barrier in that area, but she insisted I put my pass through the automatic barrier. I inserted my brand new 21-day All Japan Pass into the machine, and someone else’s ticket came out the other end. In fact, a man snatched it out of my hand, obviously in need of his ticket. The station staff member opened the machine and retrieved my pass. Now, where’s the escalator to platform 20?
On platform 20, there were queues of people waiting to board the brightly colored train Hayabusa 27 from Tokyo to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto. The train is decorated with characters and scenes from Disney movies. Within moments of arriving on the platform, the train doors opened, and it quickly filled up. It’s Friday, and people are heading home or going away for the weekend. Sunday is a holiday—Culture Day—which might explain the busyness of this train. Within just a few minutes, the train doors closed, and we set off.
Unfortunately, there is no Ekiben available on this train either, just a nice lady with a snack trolley. I bought some nuts and potato sticks and am looking forward to something more substantial later.
As the train speeded north it got very dark before 5 PM. On reaching Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto there was a final quick change onto a local train into Hakodate Staion. The booking office here was still open, so I took the opportunity to reserve seats on another couple of Shinkansen trains for tomorrow heading for Akita on the west coast.
I started the 10 minute walk to my hotel, but the red lights of a Ramen Shop caught my eye, so I made a detour across the main road and am very glad I did. It was pretty busy but i managed to get a table and orderd the Hakodate Salted Ramen with a side of lovely Gyoza. When I left the Hakodate Shio Ramen Shinano restaurant, there was a long queue waiting outside.
I have a very basic but comfortable hotel for tonight. They even provide nightshirts for their guests.
Wishing you safe travels wherever your journey takes you!
Hakodate to Akita – 02 November 2024
I woke up early, and with no breakfast on offer I checked out of the hotel at 8:45 to walk to Hakodate Station. Once I had worked out how to use the Coin Lockers to leave my bags, I headed for the nearest coffee shop for a Hot Black Americano and a slice of Cheesecake.
As I raised the cup to my mouth, I noticed a recurring sense of contentment, and I lingered over, and savoired that first sip of coffee.
I had seen that there was a church in the old part of town, so adopting a Zen Tourism approach, I put one foot in front of the other and headed away from the station in the general direction of old Hakodate.
For my efforts, I found not one church but two. Roman Catholic and Russian Orthodox varieties of places of worship. I must admit they irritated me. Bringing God to the heathens of Japan. Least said, the better I think.
The old part of town was lovely but time was getting on and I have a train to catch just after midday. Then I spotted a Temple Gate that lead to Funadama Jinja (shrine) said to have been originally built as Kannon-do (the shrine dedicated to Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy) in 1135, and thought to be the oldest in Buddhist shrine in Hokkaido.
This was a perfect place to end my mornings exploration of Hakodate. On the way back to the station in picked up something for lunch on the train, as yesterday’s experience means I simply can’t rely on there being a food on the Shinkansens.
As I got near the station I was drawn to the busy fish market with all the strange marine creatures and variety of smells.
The three carriages of the local ‘Hakodate Liner’ train to the Shinkansen station of Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto were very full but I managed to get a seat for the short 30 minute journey. At our destination, the arrival platform was packed with people waiting to take the train to Hakodate. I think that there were probably more people than the train could accommodate, but I had my own train to catch, so not my direct concern.
The Shinkansen for Tokyo was already on the platform and I was surprised to see that there was no unreserved seat carriages. I had just assumed that all trains had some unreserved seats, and had only my a reservation myself because yesterday for convenience.
Anyway, Hayabusa 28, the Shinkansen for Tokyo wasn’t full at this point so I had a very pleasant ride 2 hour ride to Morioka, where I transferred onto the Komachi 57 Shinkansen bound for Akita. This train had a 2×2 seat configuration, rather than 3×2, which seemed to make it more comfortable. When the train got to the penultimate station, Ōmagiri, it changed direction, so at the press of a footpedal, I turned my seat around to face the other way.
The Toyoko Inn Akita-eki is comfortable enough, and I will spend the weekend here.
I had dinner in a local restaurant. It consisted of 8 different things covered in batter and deep fried, some meat, some vegetable, and even quail eggs. I had a side of Tomato, well half a tomato with a dollop of mayonnaise, and a Potato Salad that came with a wooden pestle to mash the potatoes and eggs together.
New sights, new sounds, new smells, new tastes, and new experiences.
Earlier today in Hakodate, I read a plague commemorating the Japanese journalist and literary figure Kamei Katsuhiro, who was born there in 1907.
His famous aphorism is –
Life is to encounter, achieve enlightenment, and end peacefully.
I couldn’t agree more.
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever you journey.
Culture Day in Japan – 03 November 2024
I was leaving my hotel for a walk around Akita when I saw this rehersal.
Akita & Oga – 03 November 2024
I didn’t go to bed until 2:30 AM because I attended my last board meeting for the Buddhist Recovery Network. Unfortunately, I was awake again by 7:30 AM, right before breakfast ended at 9 AM. I went downstairs and prepared a breakfast box to take back to my room. In hindsight, it wasn’t really worth the effort, but at least it provided some food.
I had a relaxed morning in Akita, starting with coffee and cake, followed by a long walk to the old castle gate and a nearby Buddhist shrine.
It’s Culture Day in Japan so there are lots to concerts and events, with some people dressing in traditional attire.
After that, I made my way to Akita Station to catch a local train to the small seaside town of Oga, which is about an hour away. On the way to the station, I managed to find a reasonably priced phone charger, as mine had broken a few days earlier in Kagoshima.
Upon arriving in Oga, I enjoyed a late lunch of pork and rice at Tomosu Cafe.
A short stroll led me to the Marine Park, where I observed many fathers and sons fishing off the quayside.
As the sun was setting, I returned to Oga Station to catch the five o’clock train back to Akita.
A very early night is on the cards.
Life is good, if I choose for it to be.
Wishing you safe travels wherever your journey takes you.
Niigata – 04 November 2024
I awoke to a beautiful, cool, bright sunny day in Akita. The hotel breakfast was a little better today, and definitely worth boxing up to eat in the bedroom.
The nearly 4 hour, Inaho-8 Limited Express, train service was very enjoyable as it headed south along the coast from Akita to Niigata. The best views are from the window (A) seats on the right side of the carriage.
The first thing I did as the train set off was to book a hotel near Niigata Station for tonight. I found a Deluxe Single Room for €23 on Trip.com which is too good to ignore.
I had lunch at one of the many eateries in Niigata Station as it was a little too early to check in. As soon as I did check in, I dropped my bags and took a bus towards the west coast park.
I walked the last 15 minutes of the way and just before I got to the shore, I could see through the trees the most amazing sunset I think I have ever seen. But by the time I had cleared the trees, it was gone.
Everything is temporary, transient and impermanent.
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever you journey.
Kanazawa and Wakura Onsen – 05 November 2024
Briefly, the 2 Shinkansen trains From Niigata to Kanazawa were comfortable and easy to negotiate.
The Hotel Hinodeya, booked on the way to Kanazawa, is just a couple of minutes from the station and the owner let me check in before 1PM. I dropped my bags to go back to the station in time for the 2 PM train to Wakura Onsen.
Before going to the platform I spotted some station bento boxes, ‘ekiben’, so I bought a nice looking one lunch on the train. There was plenty in the box and all quite filling but frankly, for now, I think I will stick to Ramen.
The town of Wakura Onsen was hit quite badly by an earthquake earlier this year and many hotels, inns and businesses remain closed. But, the public baths have reopened and we’ll worth a visit, even if you are a little shy about wandering around naked with other bathers.
The whole experience was like a meditation, moving from indoor pools to the outdoor pool. Sitting in silence, noticing the breath, noticing the heat of the water, noticing the coolness of the outside air. Being aware of the shifts in perception of pleasant and unpleasant, as the water felt too hot and the cool air a relief, or the cool air being too cool and the welcoming warmth of the hot spring water.
I walked from the station to the baths, about 25-minutes, but took the bus for the return journey.
New sights, new sounds, new tastes… and two new experiences… ekiben on a train and onsen life.
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever you journey.
Kanazawa to Osaka – 06 November 2024
The train from Kanazawa to Tsuruga was a Shinkansen which I wasn’t expecting. And, the train from Tsuruga to Osaka was a Thunderbird Limited Express. Both of these trains are a joy to ride.
It was too early for me to check in, so I put my luggage in storage and went looking for somewhere to exchange some cash. The tunnels and walkways under Osaka Station and environs, are a labyrinth hence my impressive step count today. But, in the words of U2, I still didn’t find what I’m looking for.
I checked into my apartment at 4 PM. It’s a couple of minutes walk from Juso Staion on the Hanyu Line.
In the evening, I went back into Osaka and took the Metro to Namba Station to meet a Dharma friend for dinner.
All In all, a very pleasant and agreeable day.
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever you journey.
Osaka and Kyoto – 07 November 2024
..Day out in Kyoto from Osaka, visiting Kenninji Temple and Chionin Temple and a walk around the ‘city’.
On the way to Kyoto (on the HK Line), I couldn’t resist a slight detour at Minami-Ibaraki Station to ride the Osaka Monorail.
Great fun.
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever you journey.
Osaka and Kobe – 08 November 2024
A morning trip to Kobe on the HK Line and Kobe Metro to the Herb Garden via Cable Car (ropeway). Lunch at the top was ‘Kobe Black Curry and Rice’ which was very tasty but grossly overpriced.
I returned to Osake on the JR Kobe Line and JR Loop Line to visit Osaka Castle.
An interesting day!
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever you journey.
Osaka to Nagasaki – 09 November 2024
I checked out of my apartment at 10 AM, but the first of today’s trains doesn’t depart until 12:20 PM. So, I took the HK Line into Osaka for coffee and a croissant, and picked up a couple of baguettes for lunch before heading to Shin-Osaka for the Shinkansen to Shin-Tosu.
The Limited Express from Shin-Tosu to Takeo Onsen connects with the relatively new Shinkansen that runs to and from Nagasaki. It was very modern and comfortable.
However, that’s where my easy day came to an end! Foolishly, I followed the directions to Hotel Ikoma from the Tripcase app, which provided incorrect information to Google Maps, giving me a false sense of security. I should have realized something was off when the directions included a bus journey followed by a long walk. I usually make a point of booking accommodation near train stations or simple public transport options.
Anyway, following the incorrect instructions, I needed to catch an unnumbered bus. I asked a kind Japanese gentleman at the bus stop for guidance, and he told me I needed a red bus without a number, just the destination written in Japanese on the front. He even waited at the bus stop with me to ensure I got on the right (which turned out to be wrong) bus. What a kind man.
Once I got off the bus, the directions sent me walking uphill. After about 30 minutes, drenched in sweat and exhausted, I looked puzzled, and a Japanese woman asked if I was okay. She had just been dropped off at an apartment block by a man with a car. When I explained that I was looking for Hotel Ikoma, she told me that all the hotels were “down there,” indicating back toward town! The woman took pity on me and instructed the male driver, who was about to leave, to take me to the hotel.
It turned out to be quite a long drive back toward town, with the man watching TV on his phone as we descended the narrow winding roads. He eventually dropped me right outside Hotel Ikoma.
The kindness of strangers!
When I checked the proper directions on Google Maps, I realized I could have walked to the hotel in just 8 minutes!
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever your journey takes you.
NOTE ABOUT DYNAMIC HOTEL PRICING
*NOTE ABOUT DYNAMIC HOTEL PRICING* Once I had settled on my remaining itinerary in Japan, I decided to book relevant train reservations and accommodation. The seat reservations were no problem, even though some trains were already starting to fill up. Booking hotels for Nagasaki, Hiroshima and Tokyo was very time consuming because of the high prices in these popular tourist destinations. Consequently, in Nagasaki, I ended up in a ‘Love Hotel’ as the cheapest accommodation relatively close to the station. In Hiroshima, I couldn’t find a single hotel for 3 nights under €100 per night. The third night, Wednesday 13th, was particularly difficult to acquire, therefore I booked two nights in the Sumiya Spa & Hotel for €42 and one night at the Hotel Jupiter (Adults Only) for €73. When it came to finding an affordable hotel in Tokyo, it looked like being beyond my means. So, I started looking at Yokohama, a 25 minute train ride from Tokyo. Here’s an example of the madness of “Dynamic Hotel Pricing”. APA Hotel and resort as quoted on 2024-11-12 by Agoda.com Thursday ¥86,056 – €526 Friday ¥8,842 – €54 Saturday ¥28,949 – €177 Total if booked individually ¥123,847 – €757 for three nights. Three nights booked together = 368,236 – €2250 It seems that depending upon location, seasonality, and facilities the average price of a hotel room in Tokyo is around $395 per night.
Nagasaki – 10 November 2024
I walked to Nagasaki Station in eight minutes and purchased a one-day tram pass.
After enjoying coffee, a sandwich, and a cake, my first stop of the day was the Nagasaki Peace Park and the Atomic Bomb Hypocenter.
“Man hands on misery to man.”
It’s worth remembering that the Japanese learned ‘imperialism’ from the British, Dutch, and Portuguese, and later from the USA.
By now, I was soaked—not from the heat, but from the constant downpour. I must admit I found it quite refreshing, and in a strange way, cleansing.
With my tram pass in hand, I traveled to the Koshibyo Confucius Shrine and Museum, followed by a visit to the Yasaka Shrine, and lastly, the Sofuku-ji Temple, which was deserted amidst the rain-filled silence.
Back at Nagasaki Station, I headed to the adjacent AMU Plaza, where the fifth floor is home to a couple of dozen restaurants. I enjoyed a timely dinner and dessert there.
That’s enough for one day.
Wishing you safe travels wherever your journey takes you.
Hiroshima and Miyajima – 11 November 2024
I began my day with an easy, albeit slow, stroll to Nagasaki Station, where I enjoyed the breakfast special of a large hot Americano and a sandwich for under €3.50 at Seattle’s Best Café. Both were very good.
I boarded the Shinkansen Kamome 18, which is supposed to travel from Nagasaki to Hakata. However, I couldn’t find that information on the Navitime app or Google Maps. It turns out that it doesn’t go directly to Hakata; you need to change trains at Takeo-Onsen to catch the Limited Express. This is the reverse of my journey here, which makes sense, though it was a bit confusing!
The train ride to Hiroshima Station was comfortable and stress-free. Upon arrival, I stored my bags in a coin locker, which was much larger than I needed, but it was the only one available and cost ¥800.
With my bags secured, I set out for the afternoon, starting with the JR Meipuru-pu Sightseeing Bus. I rode the Orange Route, followed by the Lemon Route, and then the Green Route. One of my stops was the Atomic Bomb Dome, after which I walked through the Peace Park.
“Man hands on misery to man” keeps repeating itself in my mind.
After my visit, I took the Meipuru-pu bus back to the station and arrived just in time to catch the 16:30 train to Miyajima-guchi, followed by the JR Ferry to Miyajima to see the giant orange Great Torii Gate at sunset.
As the Rolling Stones sang, “You can’t always get what you want.” Unfortunately, the local train was delayed by about 10 minutes! While this wasn’t much in terms of time, it significantly affected my chances of catching the sunset. However, the journey was still worthwhile, and more importantly, I had fun.
Before retrieving my bags from Hiroshima Station, I indulged in some delicious Shirunashi Tang Tang Noodles in the station’s expansive food hall.
It was a full and enjoyable day.
I wish you safe travels wherever your journey takes you!
Hiroshima and Mount Mitaki – 12 November 2024
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Hiroshima Station Food Hall – 13 November 2024
Yakisoba at Hiroshima Station Food Hall
Hiroshima and Daytime Return to Miyajima – 13 Novemeber 2024
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Hiroshima to Yokoharma – 14 November 2024
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Yokohama and Tokyo – 15 November 2024
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Yokohama and Tokyo – 16 November 2024
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Shinjō and Semionsen, Japan – 17 October 2024
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Fukushima and Iizakaonsen, Japan – 18 November 2024
I was feeling pleased with myself about completing all my upcoming train bookings before I had to check out of my hotel and head for Shinjō Station, only to realise I had booked tickets for the wrong days! Fortunately it only took a couple of minutes to correct the problem once I had a coffee in the waiting room at the station.
It was a straightforward and comfortable journey from Shinjō to Fukushima. It was too early to check in, so I dropped my bags at the hotel and went in search of Fika, that is, coffee and a cake.
There appear to be quite a few train lines running to, from, and through Fukushima. One of the private lines runs backwards and forwards between Fukushima and Iizakaonsen. So that’s my destination for today.
It was a short, 20 minutes or so, ride to Iizakaonsen Station. It was cold, but fortunately I had a sweater in my backpack. It was also starting to rain persistently but I decided to have a little walk through the side streets anyway.
I came across Kyu Horikiri-tei, which is described as an “Edo-period museum-home of a wealthy merchant family, with gardens & a public foot spa.” I checked my backpack to confirm I had a small towell, then took my shoes and socks off, and sitting undercover from the rain, put my feet in the invitingly warm water. I sat there silently for perhaps 25-minutes before drying my feet, doning footwear and continuing my circular walk back to Iizakaonsen Station.
On the way back, I found Iizaka Onsen Hakoyu – the public baths by the river. Admittance was only ¥300 but I hadn’t packed a large towell, so I had to forego a more fullbodied immersion into the local hot water pools.
On arriving back at Fukushima Station, I went in search of an early dinner at Gyoza Kaikan, a well rated ramen restaurant. It was run by an old couple who were very welcoming. There’s no menu, just a list of 14 dishes written In Japanese. With the help of Google Translate, I order the Soy Ramen and some Gyozas. It was welcome, warming and wonderful.
A surprising and delightful end to a surprising and delightful day.
Wishing you safe arrivals wherever you journey.
Fukushima to Sapporo, Japan – 19 November 2024
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Otaru and Sapporo, Japan – 20 November 2024
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Kutchan and Sapporo, Japan – 21 November 2024
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Sapporo, Japan to Mokpo, South Korea – 22 November 2024
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Oedal Island and Mokpo, South Korea – 23 November 2024
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Gohado Island and Mokpo, South Korea – 24 November 2024
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Mokpo to Jeju Island, South Korea – 25 November 2024
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Jeju Island, South Korea – 26 November 2024
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Jeju Island, South Korea – 27 November 2024
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Jeju Island to Busan, South Korea – 28 November 2024
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Busan, South Korea – 29 November 2024
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Busan, South Korea – 30 November 2024
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Gyeongju, South Korea – 01 December 2024
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Gyeongju, South Korea – 02 December 2024
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Seoul, South Korea – 03 December 2024
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Seoul, South Korea – 04 December 2024
Apparently, Martial Law was declared overnight but I knew nothing about it.
I took a couple of subway trains and walked to Gyeongbokgung Palace. It may have been my imagination, but I thought the Korean commuters were subdued with most glued to their phones, watching, listening and reading avidly.
Before entering the Gyeongbokgung Palace, I stopped for breakfast at Starbucks as I was hungry and it was on the opposite side of the road. There were a lot of police about but they were not interfering with anything or anyone.
I asked for and received a free ticket at the Gyeongbokgung Palace entrance. There is no point in being “over 64” and not taking advantage of that fact. There was a free guided tour in English, so I turned my hearing aides up and tagged along.
People in national dress get free entrance to Gyeongbokgung Palace, and there were lots of them both Korean and non-Korean.
Afterwards, I walked to Bukchon Hanok Village which was pretty and a little disappointing at the same time. There were lots of other tourists in the narrow streets and alleys, both in costume and not.
I left Bukchon Hanok Village for a very good lunch of Host Spicy Beef Noodles with Pickles.
After lunch I set off to walk to Jogyesa Temple, but stopped for coffee and to check-in online for my flght to London on Friday. The coffee worked well but check-in didn’t, so I will try again later.
I continued my walk to Jogyesa Temple, but was sidetracked at Unhyeongung Palace, where I stopped to take a look around.
Finally, I arrived at Jogyesa Temple which was very busy with a ceremony in progress. When it finished, it seemed like hundreds of male and female monks in formal robes disgorged from the main temple to have group photos taken. It must be like Dr. Who’s Tardis inside.
Cold and tired, I took a couple of buses back to Seoul Station and spotted a loud demonstration in progress while the bus waited at traffic signals. I suppose it was something political, but I will never know.
That’s enough for one day.
I wish you safe arrivals wherever you journey.
Seoul, South Korea – 05 December 2024
After a late breakfast at a nearby café, I enjoyed a pleasant walk along Cheonggyecheon Stream to Dongdaemun Design Plaza, commonly known as the DDP.
I had some fun in the ‘Look, Play, Keep’ zone, followed by a coffee in the upstairs café.
I then took the Namsan Cable Car up to N Seoul Tower. The cable car fare and access to the Observation Floors are charged separately and aren’t particularly cheap, even with the ‘Over 64’ discount. However, since this is the last full day of my Far Far East adventure, it had to be done!
I enjoyed a delicious early dinner at one of the many restaurants near Myeongdong (Subway) Station.
Now it’s time to pack up and think about heading back to Ireland.
I wish you safe travels wherever your journey takes you.
Seoul, South Korea to London, UK
Alarm set for 5 am but I was awake at 4:30.
The last couple of days have started to feel a little bit like ‘work’. Right now, in Korea, there is a lot of political uncertainty, and an ‘indefinite’ rail strike started yesterday. So, it feels appropriate to be heading back to the UK and Ireland.
It was an easy stroll to Seoul Station and the AREX Airport Express line. I was told by an AREX ticket clerk, a few days ago, that you cannot book tickets for the Airport Express before the day of travel. Not true! I booked my seat on the 06:00 am train using the Klook App. I activated my ticket online to receive a QR code to board the train… no problems. Also, when booking through Klook you only pay 8,500 ₩ not 11,000 ₩, and you get a free eSIM for Korea.
At Incheon Airport (T1) I went straight to the China Southern check-in counters, waiting about 20 minutes to drop my bag, and collect my boarding passes. It then took 2 hours to get through Korean Security and Immigration, take the shuttle train to the concourse, and arrive at the gate just as it was about to close… but I made it!
The flight to Beijing Daxing (PKX) was crowded but uneventful, landing ahead of schedule. This allowed me more than two hours in the East Pacific Airport Lounge, even after Chinese Security and Immigration checks. I have a couple of free lounge passes each year, and this seemed like the perfect opportunity to utilise one. The lounge was large and not busy, providing hot food and snacks but nothing to write home about.
The China Southern A350 aircraft to London had a 3x3x3 seat configuration. The flight was pretty full, but fortunately for me, I was on the aisle with a spare seat in the middle. It was a comfortable enough flight with not bad legroom for economy class.
Arrived 55 minutes ahead of schedule.
I decided some time ago, near the start of this adventure, that I had packed at least 20% too much ‘stuff’. I had to check my backpack in today because it weighed 10kg and China Southern’s limit for carry-on is 8kg, that is a difference of 20%. I will make every effort to keep my backpack to 8kg, or less, on my next trip. If I didn’t have to wait to collect my bag today, I could have disembarked the flight and been on the train to Essex in 30-minutes flat. No matter, such is life!
A point of note on luggage going through China. On arriving at my UK destination, I noticed the padlock on my backpack had been repositioned, and on opening the backpack found a polite note from Chinese Security that the bag had been opened and searched as part of normal operations.
My ‘Far Far East’ travels are nearly at an end, and I am looking forward to getting into my bed in a couple of week’s time to hibernate for Christmas and the New Year until I head off to the Philippines, Australia, New Zealand, and California in February.
Right now, December 2024, anyone looking for an affordable adventure, can fly from Ireland to Manila, then to Seoul, and on to London for about €650. There is an awful lot you can do with a basic itinerary like that. For example, just slot in Taipei, Okinawa or Sapporo!
I must admit to starting to feel a little bit ‘flat’ today, but I am very grateful for my good fortune. I look forward to seeing my family before Christmas, and a ‘British Indian’ Curry take away this weekend.